the canadian rockies
Author: karen mCcardie

The postcard pictures of sparkling emerald lakes, lush green forests and snow-capped mountains truly came to life and were even more stunning than I could have imagined.

From New Zealand, we flew through Los Angeles to Vancouver, arguably Canada’s most picturesque city. Located on the west coast of British Columbia, Vancouver has the advantage of being a coastal city with a stunning backdrop of snow-capped mountains that are less than a 15-minute drive from downtown.

Vancouver gave me big city vibes, while retaining a small city atmosphere. The cafes, nightlife and shopping were very funky and modern; we easily wandered around downtown and felt very safe. Robson Street, which stretches from one end of downtown to the other, had an unbelievable variety of shopping options, from the known brands GAP, Banana Republic and Levi’s, to the unique locally based retailers. And there was, of course, a Starbucks on every corner. We jumped on the Hop on/Hop off trolley buses, which are a really convenient way of getting around the many downtown attractions.

The highlight of my visit to Vancouver was a trip to Grouse Mountain, where all year round you can take a spectacular gondola ride to the top and enjoy the panoramic views of the city and the harbour. The treat for me was the wildlife wilderness sanctuary where endangered animals are protected and secure. It was thrilling to watch two beautiful orphaned grizzly bears playing and interacting in a natural environment.

Leaving Vancouver we picked up a rental car and travelled the Sea to Sky Highway to Whistler. This is an incredibly scenic highway that trails along the edge of Howe Sound. En route we stopped off at Horseshoe Bay and went on an awesome Sea Safari boat ride that combines a high-speed boat ride with an informative wildlife eco-tour. This is definitely not for the fainthearted, but I can highly recommend it!

Whistler was everything I had imagined it would be: a world-class ski resort, sitting below the incredible Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains.

Although Whistler is better known as a ski destination, I was pleasantly surprised by the activities the resort provided during the summer - from hiking, biking and rafting to outdoor concerts and great dining options. Despite being limited for time I couldn’t resist trying the Zip-trekking that was advertised in the hotel lobby.

We were taken in a 4WD van for a short ride from Whistler Village into an ancient coastal temperate rainforest. Escorted by a qualified guide, who provided an interesting and informative commentary on the mountain ecology, we climbed to treetop level, high above a deep canyon and a white water river. Here we were attached to steel ziplines suspended across the river between trees. Once harnessed up, we let go!

Flying along those ziplines between two incredible mountains was exhilarating... and the view was stunning. In total I did five ziplines, each gaining progressively in height and length. I left Whistler grinning from ear to ear after such a unique experience.

From Whistler we followed the Duffey Lake Road to Sun Peaks Resort (25 minutes out of Kamloops). Although parts of the road were very windy it was well worth the little bit of fuzziness in my tummy to be able to enjoy the ever-changing scenery along the way.

I had been advised by a Canadian friend to stop at Emerald Lake Lodge, just 30 minutes from the better-known Lake Louise, and I was so pleased to have made the effort. From the Trans-Canada Highway we turned off just before Field and entered Yoho National Park. Weaving our way through the trees we got our first glimpse of Emerald Lake and the lodge - the intensity of the colour of the lake set against the backdrop of the sheer mountains and trees was absolutely beautiful.

The lodge and chalets were scattered among the trees on the lakeside. Built of hand-hewn timber and featuring massive stone fireplaces, the lodge had a formal dining room, quiet reading and sitting rooms.

We had the choice of many hiking trails, from easy walking to more strenuous - we took the Iceline Trail and thoroughly enjoyed an eye-popping day of mountain views, aquamarine waters, tumbling waterfalls, fresh green forests, wildflower meadows and rocky moraines.

Of course, not to be missed was a stop at the world famous ‘jewel of the Canadian Rockies’, Lake Louise, named after Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter, Princess Louise Caroline Alberta. We soon discovered exactly why the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise has such a great reputation - the scenery is stunning, the cuisine delectable and the service cannot be surpassed!

But we dragged ourselves away to continue on to Banff where we found a mountain resort that’s a hive of activity. Because this is the hub of the Canadian Rockies, tourists from around the world abound in the streets, giving a feeling of adventure and high energy. It was such a treat to visit the famous castle on the hill, Banff Springs Hotel, which has been a symbol of the Rockies for more than a century and is styled after a Scottish baronial castle. Wandering through the public areas, taking in the ambience of this historic resort, it was easy to imagine - and wish - I was settling in for a longer stay.

We joined a small group day trip to the Columbia Icefi elds although, had time permitted, I would have chosen to drive right through to Jasper on the Icefields Parkway - it’s undoubtedly the most scenic highway in the Canadian Rockies. Paralleling the Great Divide and taking in the Columbia Icefi elds, Bow and Crowfoot glaciers, Athabasca Falls and Peyto Lake (not to mention lots of wildlife photo opportunities en route), it’s an incredible trip either by coach or to drive on your own.

My journey through the magnificent Canadian Rockies sadly ended in Calgary as I left behind those magnificent mountains. Now I find myself longing to make a return visit and have the pleasure of deciding which corner to explore next.



ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Karen McCardle used to work for houseoftravel.co.nz before moving to Canada where she now continues to work in the travel industry.